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Hey all, here are a few pics of my velosity stacks I made @ home. MBHD
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Looks real good. What's it for?
FORD 300 inline six - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING!
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Hank!!
Looks pretty good!!!! Good Job! What´s the size of the velocity stacks (internal diameter), and what´s your cylinder head intake port size??
I will star make mine next year!! :p
Do you know what plenum volume you´ll need for your engine, Hank??
Talk to you later!!
Douglas Carbonera - Brazil
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Thanks guys,, THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER, This is for my 12 port cylinder head (Chevy 250). I need to make my own intake manifold & turbo exhaust manifold. Hogan (Hogans manifolds) made one for a customer of Sissels & there is a pic in there catalog,IIRC It was $2500 for the intake manifold. Too much for me. :-)
Douglas, my intake ports are not as big as yours,1.71" I still need to figure the size plenum volume I need. I will PM you.
MBHD
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Hank: Is these for a Sissel head or did you take someone’s suggestion and make a 12 port out of an integral head 250? Someone started making NEW 3.0L heads for marine use but two welded together would be a little better breather than our siamese port heads. Yes they are made for a 4" bore but, since Douglas is drag racing a 250 with 4" bores well......
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Randy, these velosity stacks are for my plenum box that will bolt to my Sissel 12 port head.
I would not recommend going to a 4" bore,walls are too thin.
Douglas's car(orange one) is for drag racing,normally aspirated. He is not going w/a 4" bore for his turbo charged race car (yellow one).
MBHD
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Hank: BUT he has 15:1 compression !!!! I'd say that would be a little stressfull on the thin bores. His seems to be holding up quite well. I'm looking into the 4" bore and having my crank stroked to 3.75". This would make a 283 cid engine. I only want to run 9:1 compression, not nearly as hard on those thin bores. I have a early 230 block which should have a lot thicker walls than a first year 250. (well, at least I hope so) Now if I can get the money saved up to get Edy's head and EFI intake up here to Texas..........
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Randy, Douglas also milled his block .300 He also pounded his bearings & needs new ones.
Early blocks are no thicker in the cylinder walls,that I know of. What cylinder head do you want from EDY?
Douglas' orange car overheats on the street w/the 4" bore, but if you want a 4" bore for a race car,,,, go for it!!!!
MBHD
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A 4in bore would not live very long as a daily driver Like Hank said It will RUN HOT If not it'll be boiling over especialy In bumper to bumper traffic. The walls willjust be to thin.
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo] Adding CFM adds boost God doesn't like ugly.
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I want to sonic check my bores first before commiting. I'm wanting to get the newer 12 port head from Edy. Thats not a wonder part but pretty neat looking.
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What about this Edy´s Head? Do you have some pics Randy?
250 and 261
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About the 4" pistons:
A engine builder & friend of mine said if you assemble it for street use lashing it 3 to 5 you won´t have any problem for years. But, otherwise, if you lash it 10 or 12 for track use, as it should be done, the block won´t survive much longer than 3 races.
250 and 261
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Originally posted by seiscanecos74: What about this Edy´s Head? Do you have some pics Randy? I seen the pics,the ports are huge! You can put a "D" size battery in the intake port & it still does not fill the intake port. I mean really big,like Ford Super Cobra Jet Ford big block head port size. Bigger than oval port BBC I do not see it being a good cyl head for street use. Too big of ports for the average user. Two cents thrown. Douglas used to own this cylinder head,maybe he can chime in here & talk about it as he knows more about it than I do,I just seen the pics. MBHD
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seiscanecos74 wrote:
About the 4" pistons:
A engine builder & friend of mine said if you assemble it for street use lashing it 3 to 5 you won´t have any problem for years. But, otherwise, if you lash it 10 or 12 for track use, as it should be done, the block won´t survive much longer than 3 races. What do you mean by lashing it 3 to 5? That's a new term to me...
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I think he means piston to wall clearance???
MBHD
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Yes, piston to wall clearence.
The machine shop usually lashes 0.003 or 0.004 for street use. Beyond that, for tracks, the lashing should be more due to the heating, piston material or whatever. If you lash a 4" piston in 0.012, the cylinder bores will be too big and then the wall to thin. Sometimes you can be lucky and nothing is going to happen, sometimes not.
250 and 261
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Good KB piston will run at .0015 to .002 so it would be easy to keep it tight. They do not expand very much and the high silcon will not let them scuff the cylinder walls. They can also be coated on the skirts to help out. 4" bore X 3.75" stroke = 283cid (rounded up) seiscanecos74: You might know that Edy is using another head for his engine. He is not going to use the stock MEFI head and intake but it will take a lot of money to sent it here so I'll keep saving untill I have enough money to get it here. That set up will be a great conversation piece here in the states since we do not have anything like it.
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Sorry for the late post but I am fairly new here and I am reading up on some of the older threads. Last time we bored one to 4 inch I sonic tested 4 or 5 blocks before I found one that was worth boring that far... and then I put in a 3/4 grout job. It worked well for the guy on a oval track for quit a few seasons. As a side note we now only leave a inch or so for water when we grout any type block... more strength and no cooling problems... street or track.
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ottoman,
Do you recall the wall thicknesses you measured? What did you consider minimum wall?
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Boy that was a few years ago... I think after boring the thinest parts were around .060. If I remember there was a lot of core shift in these blocks. I like to see at least .125 for HP street and more for race.
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