Inliners International Forums General Discussion Blown and Injected Generous offer...

here is the mounting bracket for the turbo.

center divider cleaned out!

For your "J" up-pipe to fed the turbo, I would use a flex coupler.
Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-x4-Stainless...843&vxp=mtr

MBHD

I had thought about using flex like that, Hank.
Can't remember where I read it, but recall that it was not great to use them in the j pipe.
I think it's a good idea to allow for misalignment in my dodgy fabrication 😂

tlowe~ thanks for the link on the carb adapter... it is on its way!

Now I need the boost gauge, a/f meter and to install the whole kitten cabootle!

That read would be interesting to view.
Reason for the flex joint is not because of misalignment of the pipes, it is used so your "J" pipe won't crack.
Also, flex couplings reduce premature cracking of manifolds and downpipes and help extend the life of other components.


It looks like your are mounting the turbo bracket solid to the block.
Your exhaust manifold heats up, expands, cools ,then expands, etc.

So @ the point where your pipe attaches to the exhaust manifold, to your solid mount for the turbo, there will be expansion & contraction of the "J" pipe, could cause cracking of the pipe, just trying to help you out.

Good luck with it.
As far as flex joints are concerned, there are good ones for turbo apps & bad ones.

You do not want a flex joint that has a metal mesh on the inside, (like the outside is), those have a tendency to get all distorted & collapse on the inside & will cause a restriction.

Here is an example of what not to use:

https://www.google.com/search?q=flex+coupler&biw=1600&bih=796&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CD4QsARqFQoTCMeYjbyo3sYCFUEwiAodK70Mgg#imgrc=ljVcfSj0KpDJLM%3A

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=27808

MBHD

Well, sir, I bought a flex from NAPA today. Not the type you show not to use!
I will have to reinstall the system so that I can cut the pipe and install the flex. No biggie.
Guess I'm not too far from the install in the car! 😆

Glad to hear my suggestions are not falling on deaf ears.

You are doing a great job, & seem to be meticulous about your build & talented on your building skills, good to see that.

Keep it up.

MBHD

ew flex pipe

nstalled

Nice!!!

MBHD

I'm getting a narrow band air fuel meter for almost nothing and an O2 sensor for $30.
Only thing I'm not sure of is wiring.

This will get me by till I get enough for a wide band.

A narrow band O2 is not even worth installing IMO.

They react too slow, so you really will not know your true A/F ratio at any given point in the RPM range. You would be guessing at best what the A/F ratio would be at a certain RPM.

You can get them to work somewhat OK, but I would never try & tune an engine especially a turbocharged engine.

MBHD

I was going to use it less for tuning and more for knowing I'm not dangerously lean under boost.

I was going to be getting a digital boost/vacuum gauge and the a/f meter... but just realized the gauges have no sensors with them.
Even at $30 to pick them up, doesn't seem worth it.

I think a narrow band will only read correct at 13.7 and will not show correct on either side it's only for OEM computers to keep the mixture and the 13.7 a/f ratio nothing more.

I think last time I purchased wide band sensors they were like 75.00 each, may be wrong. I know they are very expensive.

Narrowbands will read outside of 14.7, but they are very limited, and should not be used for boost if at all possible. However, if I remember correctly, Buick GN's used a narrowband with boost from the factory, so it is possible, just not desirable.

Here is a chart relating narrowband readings vs ratio. Outside of 14-15 it is unreliable, and with a boosted motor the rich world is where you will spend a lot of time. Fuel cools the chamber very well!

https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/10/Innovate/images/graphNarrowBand.gif

Forgot!

I cannot seem to find a wide band kit for less than $230 around here.

I've never had luck with ebay, so I don't bother with them anymore.

My oil return kit came in today. I must say that I am disappointed with Vibrant performance... not one kit I have bought has cone with gaskets!

I also got in some 3" mandrel bend elbows for my downpipe.
At the advice of the local performance exhaust shop (with turbo experience) I will be using 3" from the turbo to under the firewall. Then I will reduce to 2.5" and add a flange. The other side of the flange will be a flex and back with 2.5"
Most likely use a cherry bomb straight through. With no tail pipe for now as I cannot afford it.

Neither can I afford the a/f meter But I don't think it will be more than a month or so before I CAN get the meter!

I am now into the final reassembly of mockup.

One thing I asked and got no answer... do I still need to modify the timing with 7 psi and 94 octane?

In my post above I wanted to type 14.7 stoichiometric not 13.7, narrow band worked on GN because the computer would change the mixture to keep it at 14.7, narrow band will not work for tuning A/F it just flat lines above or below that.

http://www.maperformance.com/aem-wideband-uego-afr-gauge-install-review-30-4110.html

Here you go, you owe me a beer.

Carb adapter came in yesterday. Nice piece! I do have to open the mounting holes to the manifold

latest version of the engine. I can almost taste it!!!

Makes me want to get my build going! I need to stop spreading my money out over 5 builds...

I would run 3" all the way if you can.

Using flex pipe hurts exhaust flow, something you do not want in a turbo app.

MBHD

Well, the install has begun!

NICE!

MBHD

...I think you might want to move the washer fluid reservoir...

I like your U-pipe into the turbo better than the SPA set up. I worry about the SPA clearance with my power steering. I might be able to use your idea except move it slightly to clear my PS pump.

edit: I see you have a PS bracket. Let us know if you have problems fitting around that snail! Are you going to put a heat bag on it? With the PS pump and lines right there it might be a good idea.

Glad to see you are jumping in fully. Make sure that turbo has some wiggle room to not hit the fender well. Engines move A LOT when driving.

Well, I've had some complications.
First, the j - pipe hit the engine mounting bracket. Not the mount but the bracket that goes from the frame to the mount. Had to remove that bracket and notch it.
Second, the turbo hit the shock tower. Had to cut the mounting bracket and tip the turbo up and away from the tower.
Third, I never had the alternator in place during mock up... had to modify the top bracket and get a longer belt.
Fourth, with the wastegate in place, my exhaust routing has had to change. That is where I am now.

I was also shipped an aluminum v band flange instead of the stainless one. A friend had one, so a few hours lost. No biggie.

There is no power steering in the car. I think the bracket seen is the mounting bracket I made to hang the turbo.

SNAG.
I cannot run my exhaust (without going through the inner fender like a fender well header) because of the transmission kick down rod. I MAY, and this is a HUGE MAY, be able to modify the kick down to move it out of the way. That it, if all the stars align and I hold my tongue just right!
Even a 2.5" down pipe would be an absolute bullseye!

Once I attach the oil return line and finish weld the exhaust, I should be able to start it up 😆

Everything is tight clearance! Guarantee things are going to hit!

Well, folks, it's alive!
Started it up this afternoon!
I have some carb issues... at first the fuel was squirting from the vent. Lowered the float and it stopped. Once I got it started and idling, it acts as if it runs out of fuel. Fires up fairly quickly. Then the same thing. Hesitation with throttle. Runs out of fuel.
I have a thought on this... the reference source on the fuel pump sees vacuum as well as boost. I think that under vacuum, it is not allowing the diaphragm to push the correct amount of fuel to the carb, running it low or out.
When I disconnected the source, the carb sprays fuel again. Perhaps now that the pressure is correct, the float is too high.
I will adjust the float again tomorrow and try again.

Small victories! It started!

Awesome!

Glad to hear you got it running.

Very quickly I might add, good job!

MBHD

I removed the reference line from the fuel pump. Adjusted the float.
Crank it over and fountain of fuel. Lowered the float some more. Same. More. Same. When it stops raining in will remove the bowl again and make sure nothing dodgy is going on.
Can't see my stock pump having too much pressure!

Take some video! Very excited for you.

Ok. So here is where I am at...
Base timing is at 10*
With vacuum advance it sits at 25*
Doesn't idle very smooth.
When I put it in gear, it almost stalls.
I can smell the fuel in the exhaust, so I know it's not running out of fuel.
Driving...
Cruise and part throttle are quite rough.
Full throttle is not much better.
Medium acceleration is pretty good!
At higher RPM there is a noise similar to the BOV but not as loud. It is constant. The engine is also fluttering at higher RPM.

Are you sure the timing is correct? Have you verified TDC with a positive stop?
You can certainly take the charge hose off and perform the timing, just to make sure any incoming charge is not messing up your idle.