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We started the shop expansion last year in March. Life threw a big curve ball at me since then. Now getting my feet back under me. The shop expansion is nearly complete. This is the area that holds the majority of inventory, and packing. Also made a impossible to find bolt. Making another casting to include 292 water neck with bypass hose also.

GMC 302 Inline 6. Former military truck application. Sealed oil pan, setup for electric fuel pump (no mechanical fuel pump opening on the block).

Engine was sitting at a family member�s place in a shed. I do not know when it ran last. Machine shop tag indicates it was rebuilt in 1962 and has .60 cylinders, .10 over mains, and .10 over rods. I do not know if that's the last time it was rebuilt, any history my family

Appears to be a mostly complete long block. Missing carb and water pump.

Block casting number is 2194202

I�ve attempted to rotate it on the back of the crank and did not want to rotate so I would assume a complete teardown and rebuild will be needed.

If you have specific questions or would like to see a specific picture please let me know and I will provide what I can.

Asking $400. Engine is in Wilmington, NC.

(I will be cross posting this listing on several sites and local marketplaces)

Bench, Engines, High Perf - it's on topic. The most prolific poster (in terms of guesstimation) went by the moniker DeuceCoupe. Pop it in the search box and be prepared to read.

I'll see you there. Hope to be there around 10:30.
Luke

Is that a new grommet? You could try some RTV.

I know I am a little late to the game here but I thought I would mention a few things. Line boring these blocks is not really anything you want to do unless you absolutely have to. Every main is a different size and the machining process changes the orientation of the cam and crank gear, as well as the neoprene rear seal. So if you are going to go this route, you must make it clear that the absolute minimum amount of material possible is to be removed from the caps before the boring, yes boring not line honing.

Me, I would probably weld up/braze the broken lower part and skip the expensive line boring.

The issue of the screws coming in from the pan side to secure the timing cover was a left over from the main shim era. With the big trucks, after a lot of miles, you pulled the truck over the work pit, pulled the pan, removed the two screws from the front main cap, and from there you could remove the bearing cap and adjust the front bearing. Or, you did an in chassis rebuild, including the adjustment of the main bearings. Otherwise, if the screws were threaded to the main cap from the front of the cover, you would have to tear the radiator out, remove the screws from the front, which you may or may not be able to do with the balancer installed, and then pull the front main cap to adjust that particular main bearing.

After 56, the bearings were precision bearings, no shims, and so no adjustments. GM just opted not to redesign the timing cover, plate and front cap.

I have used the Graphtite seals from Best Gaskest. In my experience there is always overflow trapped between the bearing cap and the block - I always remove and tighten the cap several times and use a razor blade to cut the frays till it bolts clean with no bulges getting pinched.

In your case the upper seal already in place. I would use a piece of dowel rod to pack the exposed ends of the upper part of seal. Tap the dowel with a hammer. Then install the bottom half the rope seal as described in the instructions but trim it long enough to fill the voids left on the block side - plus the .015 extra. Start the cap bolts but leave them loose so that cap hangs on them. Slowly draw the bolts up toward the block making sure the extra on the ends are going in straight.

Tighten snugly and then loosen slowly allowing the cap to come straight down. Once the tails are clear of the block take the cap all the way off and inspect for pinches on the face of the cap. There shouldn't be any on the block side - but make sure it is clean. Trim accordingly and try again.

The pin is used to make sure the seal doesn't spin. When installing start in the center of the rope seal pressing it down on the pin and then work from the center out.

Place this jewel in your engine compartment. Fenton intake complete with heater plate and fittings, Rebuilt Carter-Weber 32/32 carbs from Langdon's Stovebolt (3), New adaptors and air cleaners from Langdon's Stovebolt, steel headers from Speedway, fuel line from Charlie Price's Vintage Parts. These in total cost over $1200.00 Some of these parts are out of production. US destinations will be shipped from 13640 on your dime. Sold as a package. US$700.00 OBO

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